Exploring the History of Cufflinks
- Thomas Glover
- Jun 17
- 3 min read
Updated: Jun 20
This article looks at the history of one of the most iconic pieces of men’s jewellery - the cufflink.
Shirt-like items of clothing have been worn since the invention of woven fabric. Historically, the shirt was considered an undergarment, concealed beneath layers of waistcoats and jackets. Exposing one’s shirt sleeves in public was deemed improper, and their cuffs were purely functional, typically tied with string, ribbon, or fastened with simple ties.
By the 16th and early 17th centuries, fashion had evolved, and elaborately embroidered collars and cuffs began to emerge from beneath outer garments. These embellishments called for a more elegant method of fastening, prompting tailors to introduce structured buttonholes into shirt cuffs. By the late 17th century, fashionable European gentlemen began linking two ornamental buttons with a short chain to secure their cuffs, marking the earliest form of what we now recognise as the cufflink.
French tailors referred to these early fasteners as boutons de manchettes, or "sleeve buttons," which quickly became popular among the aristocracy. As their appeal grew, jewellers began crafting these items in silver and gold, adding semi-precious gemstones or stamped designs.
In the late 18th and 19th century,
their popularity soared. Advances in electroplating and mass production during the Industrial Revolution made them far more accessible. What was once a luxury reserved for the aristocracy could now be enjoyed by the emerging middle classes, ushering in a new era of style and self-expression in men’s fashion.
The early 19th century saw the rise of a professional dress code: dark suits by day, and dinner jackets or tailcoats in the evening. By the mid-19th century, the modern cufflink came into its own. Shirt fronts, collars, and cuffs, areas prone to wear were reinforced for durability. When starched, these became too stiff for simple buttons, making cufflinks not just fashionable but practical.
From this period onward,
cufflinks became a wardrobe staple for middle- and upper-class men. The variety of styles and materials expanded significantly, from fine gemstones to coloured glass, offering more affordable options.
The early 20th century saw cufflinks worn more than ever. They featured in both formal and business attire and became essential for formal dress codes such as black tie and white tie, often matched with shirt studs. During the Art Deco period platinum and diamonds became popular materials, in geometric shapes accented by enamel.
After the austerity of the World Wars,
the 1950s and 60s marked a return to prosperity and personal expression in men’s fashion. Cufflinks, once again, became an essential accessory. As ready-to-wear suits and French-cuff shirts became widely available, cufflinks were worn regularly in both business settings and for formal events. The period saw a rise in both luxury and novelty designs: classic gold and silver batons were popular among executives, while themed cufflinks featuring sports, hobbies, initials, and corporate logos emerged as fashionable, affordable options for the growing middle class.
