Aquamarine: The March Birthstone
- Beth Dawson
- Feb 26
- 3 min read
Updated: Mar 5
With its serene blue hues reminiscent of the ocean, aquamarine has long been associated with tranquillity, protection and renewal. As March's birthstone, aquamarine is valued for its colour, fascinating history, and symbolic significance. Whether set in antique or contemporary jewellery, this stunning gem captivates jewellery enthusiasts worldwide.
Aquamarine takes its name from the Latin words 'aqua' (water) and 'marina' (of the sea). In ancient times, aquamarine was associated with the sea god Poseidon and believed to be the treasure of mermaids, providing sailors protection from the dangers of the sea. Roman fishermen often carried aquamarine amulets, convinced that the stone could ensure safe passage and yield a bountiful catch.
During the medieval period, aquamarine was a relatively rare gemstone compared to more commonly used gems like sapphires, rubies, and garnets. Sources were primarily from ancient and early medieval mining sites, trade routes, and deposits such as India and Sri Lanka via the Silk Road and Egypt, where emeralds and other beryls were mined in the Eastern Desert.
Aquamarine was thought to possess mystical properties that revealed truth and prevented deception. It was used in divination practices, with fortune-tellers gazing into aquamarine crystal balls to gain insight into the future. It was also believed to bring courage and victory in battle and was a favourite of medieval knights and warriors.
During the early modern period, global trade networks established through European exploration and colonisation made aquamarine more accessible. Significant deposits were discovered in Brazil in the early 1500s, increasing the supply of the gemstone, while the Dutch East India Company expanded trade routes with Southeast Asia and India, bringing more exotic gemstones to European markets.
During the Renaissance, aquamarine was exchanged as a love token to ensure faithfulness in marriage. There was a widespread belief that an aquamarine ring could reveal infidelity - if the stone's colour faded, it was said to signify unfaithfulness.
However, aquamarine is rarely found in surviving jewellery from this era due to its relative scarcity and the common practice of resetting gemstones into new pieces over generations. Unlike more abundant gemstones like sapphires and garnets, aquamarine was not as widely used in Renaissance or Baroque jewellery.
By the Georgian period, pale gemstones, such as aquamarine and pearl, became fashionable and admired for their soft, luminous appeal, particularly in France and England. Georgian jewellers often closed-back settings with coloured foiling, enhancing aquamarine’s brilliance and giving it a radiant glow.
The discovery of vast aquamarine deposits in Brazil in the late 19th century fuelled its popularity during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. These new sources produced aquamarines of exceptional clarity and a range of blue hues, making the gemstone more accessible to a wider audience.
During the Victorian era, the gemstone often appeared in floral and scrollwork settings, acrostic jewellery, and memorial and sentimental pieces, where aquamarine was believed to bring comfort and tranquillity to the wearer. It was also featured in large brooches and pendants, framed by intricate Etruscan revival filigree or repoussé work.
By the late Victorian period, aesthetic movement jewellery favoured simpler, more refined designs featuring aquamarine in bezel settings with scrolling goldwork. As the century drew to a close, the move toward Art Nouveau styles saw aquamarines appear in whimsical, flowing designs inspired by natural forms.
During the Edwardian period, aquamarine was mounted in platinum or white gold, reflecting the era’s shift towards lighter, more refined jewellery. The gemstone’s soft, airy hue complemented the delicate, lace-like metalwork that characterised Edwardian jewellery. Common styles featured filigree and millegrain detailing, garland motifs, neoclassical-inspired rings, and lavaliere pendants. The introduction of open-back settings allowed aquamarines to showcase their full brilliance, marking a departure from the foiled closed-back settings of earlier centuries.
