Diamonds have always captivated the human imagination, with their sparkle associated with power, wealth, and mystique. The earliest known diamonds were discovered in India as far back as the 4th century BCE, and evidence suggests they may have been used in jewellery and trade as early as 1,000 BCE. For centuries, India remained the world’s only known source of diamonds, and the Golconda region stood out for producing diamonds of exceptional quality, known for their extraordinary transparency and silvery luminosity often described as ‘water-like’.
Georgian Rose Diamond Ring c.1790
During the Middle Ages, diamonds began making their way into Europe through trade routes that connected the East to the Mediterranean world. During this time, European elites treated them as talismans as much as ornaments. Believed to possess protective and healing powers, diamonds were thought to cure illness, ward off evil spirits, and bring courage. Diamonds were set in religious relics, ecclesiastical objects, and regal adornments but were rarely cut or faceted in the way we are familiar with today. They were instead worn in their raw, octahedral forms, sometimes lightly polished to enhance their natural sheen.
A pivotal moment in the history of diamonds in Europe came in 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond ring to mark their betrothal. This gift, made to secure a powerful political alliance between two prominent ruling houses, is widely regarded as one of the first documented instances of a diamond being used in an engagement ring, setting a tradition that continues today.
Victorian Diamond 7 Stone Ring c.1890
In 1725, a major diamond discovery in the riverbeds of Minas Gerais, Brazil, dramatically reshaped the global diamond trade. Brazilian diamonds soon entered the European market in large quantities, and within a few decades, Brazil had surpassed India as the world’s primary source of diamonds - a position it would maintain for more than a century.
The influx of Brazilian diamonds made the gem more accessible to Europe’s elite. This era coincided with the height of baroque and rococo opulence. Diamonds were set into elaborate bodices, collars, hair ornaments, sword hilts, and ceremonial regalia. Brazil's diamonds shaped courtly aesthetics and had broader cultural and economic implications. Their increased availability contributed to the rise of a burgeoning gemstone trade, the growth of lapidary arts in Europe, and the shift of jewellery-making centres to Paris, London, and Amsterdam. This period laid the groundwork for the modern diamond industry.
Art Deco Diamond 2 Stone Ring - French circa 1935
In the 19th century, the diamond trade expanded on a scale that would change the industry forever. In 1867, a boy discovered the Eureka Diamond on the banks of the Orange River in South Africa. Two years later, the much larger Star of South Africa was unearthed. These discoveries triggered a diamond rush, leading to the identification of vast deposits in volcanic rock formations known as kimberlite pipes. Unlike earlier sources that relied on surface-level riverbed mining, South African diamonds were extracted from deep within the earth, ushering in the age of industrial diamond mining.
New discoveries continued into the 20th century. In 1954, diamonds were found in Siberia, establishing Russia as a major player in the global diamond industry. These, too, were kimberlite-hosted deposits, confirming the geological models first developed in South Africa. In 1978, another landmark moment occurred with the discovery of the Argyle mine in Western Australia. This site quickly became one of the world's most productive by volume and was famed for its unusual coloured stones - particularly pink, champagne, and cognac diamonds. Argyle’s success transformed these once-overlooked hues into highly desirable fashion statements.
Art Deco Fancy Diamond Cluster Ring c.1930
Canada made its mark in 1991 by discovering diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in its Northwest Territories. Although buried deep beneath frozen tundra, these mines gained fame for producing high-quality, traceable diamonds. The Canadian diamond industry has built a reputation for transparency and ethical sourcing, which has become an increasingly important factor in the modern market. The extreme environment and technological challenges of Arctic mining only enhanced the prestige and allure of Canadian diamonds.
From ancient Indian riverbeds to the icy landscapes of Canada, the history of diamonds has journeyed across continents and centuries. Once reserved for kings, these glittering stones are now part of a global industry, yet their association with power, beauty, and status remains undiminished.
