Pearls are one of the oldest gemstones known to mankind. Unlike most other gems, pearls are organic and come from living molluscs. Their beauty and rarity have long inspired fascination, making them a symbol of luxury that has crossed centuries and cultures.
Pearl and Diamond Earrings c.1950
Before their natural formation was understood, pearls were surrounded by rich mythologies. In the ancient Middle East, pearls were believed to be teardrops fallen from heaven. In China, they were thought to originate from the brain of a dragon, and in Europe, Christopher Columbus and his contemporaries believed that molluscs formed pearls from dewdrops. These stories reflect the mystery surrounding pearls in pre-modern imagination.
Natural pearls have been harvested for over 5,000 years. The Persian Gulf was one of the most important historic sources in the ancient and medieval worlds. The Red Sea yielded pearls as early as 300 BCE, while the Strait of Mannar, between India and Sri Lanka, produced pearls from around 2000 BCE. From the sixteenth century onwards, Spanish colonial expansion brought large quantities of pearls from the waters off Central and South America into Europe.
During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, pearls were used to signify wealth and status, and frequently appeared in royal portraiture. By the Georgian and Victorian eras, pearls were widely used in necklaces, brooches, earrings and mourning jewellery. In the nineteenth century in particular, pearls carried sentimental meanings tied to purity and remembrance. The Edwardian period saw pearls paired with diamonds in delicate platinum settings, creating light, lace-like designs that emphasised movement and luminosity. Across cultures, pearls remain closely associated with rites of passage such as weddings and christenings, where they symbolise purity and fidelity.
Edwardian Pearl and Rose Diamond Necklace c.1905
Among the most celebrated pearls in history is the La Peregrina, a remarkable natural drop-shaped pearl weighing 50.56 carats. Discovered in the sixteenth century in the Gulf of Panama, it passed through the hands of Spanish royalty before eventually being gifted by Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969. Later set by Cartier, the pearl achieved renewed fame when the necklace was sold at auction in 2011.
Such historic pearls underscore the prestige pearls once held, often valued as highly as diamonds and rubies before modern cultured pearl techniques were developed.
Pearls are grown inside the tissue of a living saltwater or freshwater mollusc such as an oyster or a mussel. Natural pearls form when the mollusc secretes a substance called nacre around an irritant, such as a piece of sand or a parasite that has invaded its shell, and cultured pearls are formed by placing a piece of mantle tissue or a tiny mother-of-pearl shell bead into a host mollusc. The mollusc then covers the irritant with nacre, like a natural pearl. This process occurs in both saltwater and freshwater environments and can take several years, contributing to the uniqueness of each pearl’s shape, size and lustre.
Cultured Pearl Necklace, Diamond and Pearl Clasp c.1950
Today, saltwater cultured pearls are primarily farmed in Japan (producing Akoya pearls), French Polynesia (producing Tahitian pearls), and Australia and Indonesia (producing South Sea pearls), while China dominates the freshwater pearl market. Pearl farms are typically located in pristine, unpolluted waters, as mollusks are highly sensitive to environmental conditions. Pearls can even be found in the rivers of Scotland.
Today, saltwater cultured pearls are primarily farmed in Japan, where Akoya pearls are produced, in French Polynesia for Tahitian pearls, and in Australia and Indonesia for South Sea varieties. China dominates the global freshwater pearl market, producing the vast majority of the world’s supply. Pearl cultivation depends upon exceptionally clean, unpolluted water, as molluscs are highly sensitive. While commercial pearl farming is concentrated in Asia and the Pacific, wild pearls can be found much further afield, including in the rivers of Scotland, where freshwater mussels sometimes yield extremely rare natural pearls.
Edwardian Pearl & Diamond Cluster Ring c.1920
With a hardness of just 2.5–3 on the Mohs scale, pearls are softer than most gemstones and require careful handling. They should be stored separately to avoid scratching and kept away from perfumes, cosmetics and chemicals. Cleaning pearls gently with a soft, damp cloth after wear helps preserve their lustre, ensuring they remain beautiful for generations.
At Thomas Glover, we are fortunate to offer a carefully curated selection of antique and vintage pearl jewellery, each chosen for its quality and wider history. If you would like guidance on selecting pearl jewellery, or wish to learn more about caring for your pearls, please get in touch and we would be very happy to help.
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