At Thomas Glover, we are proud to offer a curated selection of antique and vintage ruby jewellery, the birthstone for July.
Known for its vivid red hue, the ruby has long been known as a symbol of love and passion. The name originates from the Latin word ruber, meaning red. In ancient India, rubies were revered as the “king of gemstones,” holding sacred status in Hindu texts. Warriors believed they offered invincibility in battle, while royalty set them into crowns and armour for protection. In medieval Europe, rubies were thought to reconcile lovers and ward off plague and misfortune. Their association with the heart made them especially popular as tokens of love and devotion in jewellery from the 15th century onward.
Victorian Burma Ruby & Diamond Cluster Ring c.1900
With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, rubies are second only to diamonds in durability, making them ideal for everyday wear. They are a variety of the mineral corundum, the same mineral family as sapphires. What sets them apart is their colour: only corundum with a rich red hue caused by the presence of chromium is classified as a ruby. All other colours, including pink, are considered sapphires. Fine rubies with strong colour saturation and minimal treatment are exceptionally rare and command high prices on the market.
The finest rubies hail from the historic mines of Mogok in Burma (now Myanmar), renowned for producing stones with a velvety, pigeon-blood red hue. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods, most rubies used in fine jewellery were sourced from Burma or Sri Lanka (then Ceylon). Burmese rubies were prized for their rich, saturated colour, while Sri Lankan stones tended to be lighter but highly transparent. Today, Mozambique is a major source of rubies, producing stones with vivid colour and good clarity. Other notable origins include Vietnam, known for its pinkish-red stones, and Thailand, with rubies of a deeper tone.
Art Nouveau Ruby & Diamond Pendant c.1900
In the Georgian era, rubies were a rare luxury, due to their scarcity and high cost. When used, they typically appeared in small sizes or cabochon cuts, set in closed-back gold or silver settings with coloured foil to enhance their brilliance in candlelight. High-quality rubies were scarce, and many red gemstones from this period have since been identified as spinels, visually similar but chemically distinct from rubies. The difference wasn’t fully understood until the late 18th to early 19th century when advances in mineralogy enabled gemmologists to distinguish between the two with greater accuracy.
By the Victorian era, rubies had become more widely available and increasingly favoured in sentimental jewellery. Their deep red colour had long been associated with love and passion, resonating strongly with the era’s romantic ideals. Typically set in warm yellow gold and often paired with old-cut diamonds or pearls, rubies featured in motifs such as hearts, crescent moons, ribbons, and floral sprays. They also featured in acrostic jewellery, spelling out messages of affection using the initials of different gemstones.
Victorian Ruby and Diamond 7 Stone Ring circa.1900
Victorian jewellery styles evolved through three distinct phases: the Romantic period (1837–1860) favoured delicate designs with floral and natural motifs, where rubies adorned serpents and forget-me-not flowers. In the Grand period (1860–1885), mourning jewellery became prevalent following the death of Prince Albert. Although dark stones like jet and garnet dominated, rubies remained in use in pieces symbolising eternal remembrance. The Aesthetic period (1885–1901) saw a return to classical and artistic influences, with rubies set in refined, often architectural goldwork inspired by antiquity and Eastern design.
During the Edwardian period, the introduction of platinum transformed jewellery design. Light, lace-like settings became the hallmark of the era, and rubies were paired with old-cut diamonds in elegant garland-style rings, tiaras, and brooches. Wreaths, bows and floral clusters were popular motifs, with millegrain detailing adding a soft, romantic finish.
Vintage Ruby and Diamond Ring c.1978
As styles shifted into the Art Deco period, jewellery embraced modernism with bold geometry, symmetry, and strong contrasts. Rubies were combined with materials like onyx, emerald, and rock crystal, often set in platinum or white gold. Step cuts and calibré cut rubies were used to create precise, linear designs in rings, bracelets, and brooches, reflecting the glamour and machine-age aesthetics of the time.
The Retro era ushered in a new era of confidence and glamour. Influenced by wartime design and Hollywood opulence, ruby jewellery became bold and sculptural. Large cocktail rings, stylised floral brooches, and scrollwork bracelets were crafted in warm-toned rose and yellow gold. Rubies were often set alongside baguette or brilliant-cut diamonds and were arranged in asymmetrical or three-dimensional forms, showcasing drama and individuality.
We have a range of ruby jewellery spanning from the Georgian era through to the bold styles of the Retro period. Whether you're drawn to the romantic sentiment of Victorian designs or the sculptural glamour of mid-20th-century pieces, our collection offers something to suit every taste.
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