Edwardian Nautical Flag Essex Crystal Bracelet c.1905

An unusual Edwardian Essex crystal nautical flag bracelet.

The bracelet comprises 26 cabochon-cut rock crystals with the alphabet maritime signal flags to one side. The crystals are mounted in gold, each of which is engraved with the corresponding letters on the reverse. The flags have a mother-of-pearl backing to the centre, making the decoration shine out. The painting is in excellent condition with no deterioration to the design.

This technique is made by the rock crystal being cut into a cabochon shape and a detailed design carved into it from the reverse. The image is painted inside the crystal so that when viewed from the front it appears in three dimensions. This technique is known as a ‘reverse intaglio’. The technique is sometimes referred to as an ‘Essex crystal’.

Each link is joined by a double jump ring making the bracelet fully articulated. The bracelet has a tongue clasp to the reverse with jump rings for a safety chain (which can be attached if required).

This fabulous bracelet is in wonderful condition and is a very wearable example of Edwardian jewellery.

For hundreds of years, flags have been used to allow the crew of one ship to ‘speak’ with another, with the designs of some being so iconic that they have become a staple of pirate-related pop culture. The International Code of Signals (ICS) is a standardised series of signals – encompassing the use of flags, designed in such a way that it can be universally understood regardless of what language the crew may speak. These flags represent the 26 letters of the alphabet. Each flag also has its own specific meaning, separate from whatever letter it represents.

Era: Edwardian c.1901-1920 

Measurements: Bracelet 20.5cm (8") in diameter, 13.6 grams in weight

Hallmarks: No assay marks - tests as 15 carat gold.

Stamped R390840