Emerald: The May Birthstone
- Beth Dawson
- May 14
- 3 min read
Updated: May 19
At Thomas Glover, we are proud to offer a carefully curated selection of antique and vintage emerald jewellery, the birthstone for May.
Renowned for its striking green colour, emeralds have captivated civilisations for thousands of years. To the ancient Egyptians, green represented fertility and eternal life. Pharaohs were buried with emeralds as protective talismans to aid them in the afterlife. Emeralds were famously treasured by Cleopatra, who loved the gem so much that she claimed ownership of Egypt’s emerald mines. These mines were worked by labourers devoted entirely to unearthing stones for the queen.
The mines eventually fell into ruin, only to be rediscovered in 1816 by French mineralogist Frédéric Cailliaud, earning the title ‘Cleopatra's Mines.’ Although little remains today, the two most prominent sites, Sikait and Zubara, are still visible on the slopes of Mount Smaragdus, known as Emerald Mountain.
Roman lapidaries were said to rest their eyes by looking at emeralds, whose vivid colour was believed to restore vision and calm. Emperor Nero reportedly wore emerald lenses to watch gladiator games, possibly to aid his nearsightedness or to shield his eyes from the glare on a sunny day.
The Spanish conquest of the Americas in the 16th century changed the emerald trade forever. In search of riches, conquistadors were drawn to the emeralds worn by the Inca and other indigenous tribes. Their search was successful, as the Colombian mines of Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez proved to be the richest in the world. The Muzo mine is still active today and famed for producing stones with a deep bluish-green hue, now considered the global standard.
The price of this discovery was high. Indigenous communities resisted the Spanish for decades, preferring death to revealing the locations of their sacred mines. Eventually, Colombia’s mines passed into state ownership after independence in the 19th century, ending centuries of colonial exploitation.
With a hardness of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, emeralds are more delicate than diamonds and require careful handling. They are often treated with oils or resins to enhance their clarity, which means they should be kept away from ultrasonic cleaners, heat, and harsh chemicals. To clean, gently clean with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water.
During the Victorian era, emeralds were paired with diamonds, pearls, and other coloured gemstones in ornate gold settings, commonly featured in lockets, brooches, and rings. Sentimental motifs such as flowers, hearts, and serpents were particularly popular, symbolising love, fidelity, and eternity. As Queen Victoria’s reign progressed, jewellery design shifted toward more sombre and restrained mourning styles. Yet emeralds remained ever-present, their verdant hue viewed as both hopeful and dignified. Classic examples from the period include three- and five-stone rings set with emeralds and old-cut diamonds.
