When we left off, we were standing at the cusp of the 20th century. The late Victorian era had given us earrings rich in sentiment and symbolism, but the next decades would see jewellery design explode with innovation and modernity. From the romantic swirls of Art Nouveau to the sleek lines of Art Deco, earrings developed and moved with cultural shifts.
Art Nouveau Sodalite, Diamond and Natural Pearl Earrings c.1910
The Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau took jewellery into the realm of fantasy. Emerging in France and Belgium, the movement rejected the rigidity of Victorian design in favour of designs that celebrated the fluidity of the natural world, crafting earrings that were wearable works of art.
Art Nouveau earrings are unmistakable: whiplash curves coil and unfurl with organic style, framing enamels in shades of misty blue, lilac, and green. Motifs of metamorphosis, such as birds in flight, dragonflies poised mid-hover, orchids in bloom, and iridescent peacock feathers, captured the era’s fascination with nature’s fleeting beauty.
Jewellers like René Lalique and Georges Fouquet led the movement, breaking boundaries by incorporating unexpected materials such as carved horn, ivory, mother-of-pearl and even semi-precious stones previously considered too humble for fine jewellery. Their use of plique-à-jour enamel, a technique that created translucent stained glass panels, gave earrings an otherworldly glow as they caught the light.
These designs reflected a new ideal of femininity. The women depicted in Art Nouveau pieces were shown with flowing hair, closed eyes and dreamlike expressions, a stark contrast to the demure Victorian archetype. Worn by avant-garde women, these earrings signalled a break from convention and a celebration of artistry and imagination.
Edwardian Diamond Bow Earrings c.1910
Edwardian Era
The Edwardian period brought a new lightness to jewellery. Under King Edward VII’s reign, earrings became more delicate and refined, a reflection of a society that prized elegance and sophistication.
The innovation of platinum was transformative. Strong yet malleable, it allowed jewellers to craft fine, almost invisible mounts that were impossible to achieve in gold or silver, giving diamonds and pearls the illusion of floating. Earrings from this period often resemble lacework in metal, with open, airy patterns that mirrored the delicate embroidery and light fabrics of Edwardian fashion.
Edwardian Diamond Drop Earrings c.1925
Edwardian jewellers drew inspiration from 18th‑century neoclassicism. Garlands, laurel wreaths, bows, and tassel motifs became signature motifs, rendered with a delicacy that platinum made possible. Diamonds and pearls were favoured, and their soft hues defined the colour palette, harmonising with the pale silks, lace collars, and pastel hues of Edwardian fashion.
Edwardian earrings also embraced movement. Long, slender drop designs were articulated to sway with the wearer and catch the glow of gaslight and early electric bulbs, bringing life and sparkle to evening outfits. Even smaller stud or cluster earrings retained a sense of intricacy, with millegrain edging and fine filigree details. Pieces from this period remain both desirable and highly wearable today.
Art Deco Jade Drop Earrings c.1930
Art Deco Period
If the Edwardian period whispered refinement, Art Deco shouted modernity. The Roaring Twenties brought a massive cultural shift, and earrings reflected this newfound energy. Jewellery became a statement of liberation, mirroring the speed, style and optimism of the age.
Art Deco earrings are defined by geometry. Triangles, zigzags, and stepped forms echoed the era’s fascination with modern architecture, from the Chrysler Building to the streamlined glamour of ocean liners. Bold contrasts of colour included black onyx, vivid jade, coral, and rock crystal set against diamonds, creating sharp and dazzling designs.
Art Deco Diamond Earrings c.1935
While the Art Deco period is renowned for its crisp lines, it was not without romance. Wing and feather motifs were a recurring theme in earring design, drawing inspiration from the era’s fascination with aviation and the new possibilities of flight. These motifs carried a sense of liberation and optimism for the future, symbolising the modern world literally taking off.
For the fashion-forward flapper, earrings were worn as declarations of freedom. They swung and glittered, catching the light in speakeasies and grand ballrooms alike. Today, Art Deco earrings remain some of the most collectable pieces of antique jewellery.
Blue Zircon Trefoil Earrings c.1950
Mid-Century to Modern Day
As the exuberance of the Art Deco period gave way to the wartime austerity of the 1940s, jewellery styles shifted. With materials rationed and daily life dominated by practicality, women favoured simple jewellery and earrings fell out of fashion. Designs from this era tended to be modest, consisting of small clip-on styles or simpler metal pieces.
However, by the 1950s, glamour returned. Post-war optimism and Hollywood influence meant that large, bold earrings came back in fashion. Famously, Queen Elizabeth II had her ears pierced to wear a pair of diamond earrings gifted for her wedding, helping to bring ear piercing back into fashion after decades of decline.
While echoes of Art Deco design remained, 1950s styles softened considerably. The sharp geometry of earlier decades gave way to curving lines and more organic shapes. Yellow gold continued to be favoured for daytime wear, while platinum and diamonds became the go-to choice for the evening. Popular motifs included rosettes, curled leaves, and shell-like forms. Many designs featured large, multi-stone clusters in mixed cuts, fitted with clip backs.
Vintage Gold Hoop Earrings c.1970
By the 1960s, jewellery took a playful turn. The rise of youth culture and the fashion revolution brought oversized costume earrings into the spotlight, designed to complement sculptural hairstyles and modern silhouettes. Bright colours, graphic shapes and experimental materials became features of the decade.
Today, earrings remain one of the most personal forms of jewellery. Whether it’s a single antique diamond stud or a curated stack of vintage earrings, our collection features pieces from the Georgian period through to the 80s.
We invite you to explore our earring collection online or visit us at our Shrewsbury townhouse.
