Celebrating Earrings through the Ages: Part 1
- Thomas Glover
- Jul 2
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 16
When archaeologists unsealed Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1923, they discovered something striking: the young pharaoh had pierced ears. Among the gold and precious relics, earrings were scattered, an ancient fashion that still captivates us today.
Ancient Origins: Egypt, Asia and Rome
Earrings are among the oldest known forms of jewellery. Long before they became everyday accessories, earrings signified power and prestige. In Ancient Egypt, lavish gold designs set with lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise were worn by the elite from as early as 1650 BC.
Later, Cleopatra famously owned a pair of pearl earrings, which, as legend has it, she dissolved in vinegar to impress the Roman general Mark Antony. At the time, pearls were extraordinarily rare and valuable; her extravagant gesture would today equate to the destruction of a jewel worth over £3 million.
In both Eastern and Western cultures, earrings symbolised status. In early Buddhist iconography, the Buddha is depicted with long earlobes, a sign of having once worn heavy earrings, which he renounced upon reaching spiritual enlightenment.
In Ancient Rome, earrings were worn by both men and women. During Julius Caesar’s reign, men of status were occasionally depicted wearing a single earring. As the Empire expanded, earrings gradually became associated with feminine luxury and lost their earlier protective or ritualistic connotations. By the height of Roman society, earrings crafted in gold and set with emeralds, pearls, and garnets were reserved for the wealthy elite.
The Middle Ages to the Renaissance
During the medieval period, earrings saw a decline in popularity across Europe. Fashion played a major role, with voluminous hairstyles, high collars, and ornate headdresses often covering the ears. Religious restrictions also contributed, and by the 13th century, the Church had outlawed ear piercing in some regions, which ironically led to earrings becoming popular among those who flouted social convention, including pirates and thieves.
The Renaissance brought earrings back into vogue, fuelled by shorter hairstyles and a renewed appreciation for classical beauty. Pearls became especially fashionable, seen as emblems of purity and prestige. Notable figures such as William Shakespeare, Sir Francis Drake, and Sir Walter Raleigh were all famously painted wearing earrings.
The Georgian Era: Grandeur and Girandoles
The 18th century was a golden age for earrings. The Georgian era saw the rise of the girandole earring - a chandelier-like design featuring a central stud with multiple gem-set drops. Filigree work, foiled settings, and vibrant stones, such as emeralds, amethyst, and topaz from the New World, gave these earrings a luxurious and eye-catching aesthetic. The backs of stones were often coated in coloured foil to enhance their brilliance in low light, especially important before the advent of electric lighting.
While coloured gemstones were highly fashionable, diamonds began to dominate after significant discoveries in Brazil in the early 18th century. These new sources provided a more consistent supply than the Indian mines that had previously been the primary source. As rose-cut and later brilliant-cut techniques developed, jewellers were able to create increasingly dazzling pieces. Earrings became increasingly elaborate, reflecting the theatricality of Georgian fashion, often paired with towering hairstyles and other ornate accessories.
The girandole style itself evolved over the century, gradually giving way to lighter and more versatile designs of the Regency period. A beautiful example of this stylistic shift can be seen in late Georgian drop earrings crafted from carnelian and agate, dating from around 1820. Earrings became more delicate and wearable. Drops were often fashioned from carved hardstones, such as carnelian, agate, and chalcedony, set in warm, yellow gold with fine cannetille or rope-twist detailing. Detachable components became increasingly popular, allowing wearers to adapt their jewellery for day or evening use.
The Victorian Age: Sentiment and Sparkle
In the early Victorian era, earrings temporarily fell out of favour as fashionable hairstyles included braids, ringlets, and bonnets, which obscured the ears. But by the 1860s, they had resurged with dramatic pendant and drop designs often worn for evening occasions. Queen Victoria herself favoured gemstone-set earrings and helped popularise their return through her widely emulated style.
Yellow gold and coloured gemstones were popular choices for daytime wear, while diamonds and pearls shone in the evening, catching the light of gas lamps and chandeliers. A fine example of mid-Victorian taste is seen in a pair of garnet and chrysolite drop earrings from around 1860. The pairing of deep red and pale green, set in rich yellow gold, reflects the period’s love of striking contrasts and its fascination with classical revival design.
Victorian earrings often carried sentimental meaning, mirroring the era’s deep attachment to symbolism, romantic ideals, and rituals of mourning. Stones were chosen for their meaning: garnets symbolised constancy, amethysts spiritual clarity, turquoise friendship, and pearls purity. Following the death of Prince Albert in 1861, mourning jewellery became a cultural mainstay, while romantic and botanical motifs such as forget-me-nots, ivy leaves, stars, and crescent moons featured prominently in earring design.
By the later decades of the century, earrings evolved once again in step with advances in diamond cutting and mounting techniques. A pair of pearl and diamond cluster earrings from around 1890 beautifully illustrates this shift. Combining natural pearls with old-cut diamonds arranged in delicate, floral-inspired clusters, they reflect a softer, more feminine aesthetic. These elegant designs bridged the sentimentalism of the Victorian age with the lightness and grace that would soon define Edwardian jewellery.
We offer a wide selection of antique and vintage earrings at Thomas Glover, with pieces spanning the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods. Whether you're drawn to bold historic design or timeless elegance, our collection has something to suit every taste and occasion. Explore our full range online or visit us at our Shrewsbury townhouse to view the collection in person.
To discover how earring styles evolved in the 20th century, don’t miss Part 2.
